Bin selection for carders


Ok guys, here it is. Sorry it took me awhile but these days I am a busy man. This is kinda a quick draft, and when I think some more I will add to it. If you have something to add please do! If you have something you disagree with then keep it to yourself I dont care, this is from 6 years of instore experience. Enjoy!

So your trying to make your instore better, your getting what you think is shitty dumps, or just starting out..
For whatever your reason for reading this, your instore all starts with you. Some will be very sad when they hear that there is no magic way to find a great bin, and when you do find those great bins chances are the supply is limited and you will have to move on to new ones. The only way to keep your success rate high is to do much research into the bank in wich your are looking to purchase bins of.

1. Finding Local Bins

Ok, so this is where alot of people are confused. It is nessceary to use a LOCAL bin in most cases to have success. You see ALL banks have fraud detection meathods to keep there users safe. Some more sophisticated than others, mostly in general banks are looking for patterns in spending and location. What I mean is if the owner of the dump, only uses there card in Kentucky, and you try using it in New York, this is gonna raise a big flag to the bank. So, we must find bins in wich are local to our area wich we will be working.

Now your saying, ok well how do I do that? Here are some great meathods:

A. Look in your wallet! This is great because you know exactly how your dump will perform. If you can go buy a 4K lappy without a problem, chances are this bin will perform the same! But sometimes not, and I will go into more detail a lil later on that.

B. Search for list of local banks. Google is your buddy even while searching bins for instoring! :) Try this in google “Kentucky Credit Unions” I would bet you will find a page with a list of most the credit unions in your state, and a nifty link to there site! Now, take your bin list [avaliable on this board] and find the bin numbers that corispond to your local credit unions. Make a list of this and save it. Were gonna use it later!

C. Old CVV or CC’s! Ok so I think alot of people dont know this, a BIN number not only tells you what bank it belongs to, but WHERE it is located. So, if bin 414705 is owned by a person in New York then most every person from that bin is located there aswell! So go find some old cc, or buy new ones and search as many bins you can find from your state. Add them to your list, make sure to include the name of the bank, not just BIN number.

2. REASEARCH!

Now you have made this hudge list of bins you are sure are local to you cause you followed User123’s tips to a T. Now the fun part! You must research each bin extensivly, I want you to go to the websites and find out as much as you can about the bins. Here is some things you want to look for:

A. Very High Credit Limits! Banks that offer huge limits, will give you better success. This is because with a 100K limit, 2K on a swipe just isnt that much :)

B. Credit Unions, while there bins are mostly hard to find, have lower security!

C. Look for banks wich offer Very low intrest/no intrest and other rewards for spending money. If a user chooses a bank with low intrest/no intrest and other rewards they most likely choose this bank becasue they are actually going to be using the card. The more activity on the card the less likely the card will be flagged, like I said earlier, banks look for patterns. One thing that will cause a decline or CFA is the card holder has not used there card for a year and all the sudden is trying to spend 2K. This is not the users normal pattern, and will cause a red flag. So to sum it up, bins wich have more activity, will work better.

You can find much of this out just from visiting there website, or if you are really having trouble and a bank looks promising but there not posting the info, Call them! They will be more than happy to tell you all about them, use common sense and dont ask stupid questions. Make sure you play the part of a customer unless you want to get hung up on.

3. Tips

A. So you had one dump from the 10 you bought of the same bin perform great, but the rest sucked. Look at the numbers, try to buy only this bin that expries in same year as the one that werked, so if it expired in 2010 try to get some with the same. Look at the 7th number, if first 7 are 4325679 and none of the other that sucked have that 7th number, buy the ones that do.

B. Stay away from Federal Credit Unions, in my experience, they suck..

C. All dumps can perform diffrent, some you must use for one large swipe. And thats all you will get. Some if you buy a few small things, and then make a big swipe will work great. Some you will buy something small and its dead. You must experiment, once you find promising looking dumps, if they not werking like you think they should try diffrent purchasing meathods.

D. MOST DUMPS WILL ONLY WORK FOR ONE BIG SWIPE!

E. Time of the year effects dumps, during big spending holidays, dumps will work incredible. This is because the card users are active, the banks expect users to be spending.

F. Vendors with fresh bases are better, it means the cards are more active recently.

G. Small Banks almost always work better than large banks, less card holders means chances of getting active cards are better.

H. If you found this tut usefull, and your feeling giving dont be afraid to hook your boy up with something!

F. Vendors with fresh bases are better, it means the cards are more active recently.

This can go true or false. If you freshly hacked a base and start selling them right away. LE will detect patterns on where the base came from based on all similar purchases that the people who got frauded will have. Otherwise, I did like.
little issue , been a while i dont cash dumps over pos , i got sum amex , and the mother fuckers when i swipe and everything at first its good , it say sum shit about disconnect , something like that , i try it in my own store , and 2 other more , the same stuff . my english not native so maybe its somethign different as im translating but it sure say the word disconnect



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